| THE HISTORY OF SOPRON AND THE CASTLE OF SOPRON
The one and a half kilometres wide strip of the Sopron
Basin and the hills and highlands around were populated from of old, due
to their advantageous sites. In the 4th-5th thousandth of years B.C. there
already had been populated areas around the Amber Road, the ambience of
which became the centre of the latter town (from the exhibited material
of the shows "Landscapes and Remnants of the Amber Road" edited by János
Gömöri, and "Three Thousand Years along the Amber Road", exposed in the
Fabricius House). The Amber Road itself was never called this way, and
the Romans had only to modernise an already existing system of commercial
roads. They did this by having covered the dirt road by stone tiles, hence
it became dustproof. In the Neolithic the representatives of the Trans-danubian
culture of line-ornaments left prestigious records around the area. The
population of the villages, the Zheliz group, and the group of the Polish
culture that produced handicrafts and tools out of stones both contributed
to these collections. Six thousand years ago they were replaced by the
group called Balaton Lasinja, who had already been keeping animals.
The settlements of the Copper Age (2500-1900 B.C.)
on the side of the Sopron Basin (Nándormagaslat) were already fortified
by ditches so as to provide more protection for the inhabitants. This can
be accounted for by the fact that the area had already been in the crossing
of commercial roads by this time. Tools and jewels refer at the cultures
that were settled here during the Brazen Age. The first permanent settlement
was established by Celtic tribes, probably around the 8th-9th century B.C.
This settlement was located at the present Bécsi Hill and along the streamlet
Ikva. This was proven during the saving of findings and art relics that
took place before the housing estate Jereván was built. The site is mostly
referred at as "Krataucker locality". At the area of the urn-cemetery pieces
of the late Brazen Age handicrafts were found. These remnants form a part
of the findings involved in the production of tools.
According to our knowledge, the first real castles,
fortifications of soil appeared in the 6th-4th centuries B.C. (Iron Age).
(These information originate in Lajos Bella's findings that is marked with
a monument under the look-out tower Várhely.) The age is mentioned as that
of the religion of Hallstatt-age. The table of the Várhely (Burgstall,
483 m) was a fortified settlement of Illyrians in the Hallstatt-age. Around
350 B.C. the area was conquered by the Celts. The building of fortifications
and ditches was continued after the first appearance of the Romans; their
final length became about 2000 metres, their final area 38 acre. Similar
fortifications were built nearby at the site of the today's Károlymagaslat.
By the 2nd century B.C. these strongholds were also fixed by stonewalls
from the outside.
On the Bécsi Hill remnants of an other settlement
were found. The ruins originate in the La Téne-age, and the settlement
probably had a fort as well. From the 4th-5th centuries B.C. the findings
of the Krataucker location helped a lot to understand the customs, religious
traditions of the age. This religious belief contained similar elements
to the Ethrusk-Greek system of goddesses who wove and cut the thread of
life. The representations of these goddesses etc. were found on the findings
of the location. On the reconstruction illustrations the remnants of houses,
storages and workshops can be seen. The edifices of the 4th-5th century
B.C. were dug into the ground. They had a form similar to a hole or a trench,
and were supported by lines of pegs. The real improvement of the settlement
followed as the Romans reached the area around the streamlets Ikva and
Rák. The Romans arrived during the reign of Tiberius (14-37), and, according
to Plinius senior, first they established a settlement on the hills nearby
under the name "Oppidum Scarbantia Iulia". Later on, they also occupied
the area of today's downtown.
The centre was where today the Main Square lies
(Forum), around the Forum houses of civis were built. The Amphitheatre
on the Bécsi Hill (2nd century), the cemetery (on the St. Michael Hill)
and the pottery workshops (today's Paprét) also belonged to the settlement.
Parts of the Forum were the Capitolium (the area of the City Hall), the
Basilica, the place of jurisdiction and trans. The Basilica was located
where now the Pharmacy House and the Gambrinus lies, up to the building
of the Curia - its North-Western approach was found in 2001, in a depth
of 4,5 metres, while a gas-line was laid down. After the identification
the approach was re-buried. The Basilica had two entrances, each
with 3 stairs, according to the prescriptions of the time. Considering
the finding, the outline of the Forum that was drawn in the TKM 455 is
correct, with the amendment that between the Curia and the Basilica there
was no place left for a smaller street. One entrance of the Basilica opened
to the Forum, the other one to the Amber Road. Next to this building stood
the Curia, together with the ancient Christian and the traditional Roman
area of shrines and temples (the Roman one was dedicated to Silvanus, the
god of forests, gardens, peasant farms). Both edifices stood at the place
of the "Vasalóház" ("Ironing House").
The Roman Scarbantia was located on a crossing between
the Amber Road (direction North-South), and the road between Arrabona (Győr)
and Vindobona (Vienna) (direction East-West). By this time, the filling
up of the boggy areas, the founding using pegs and piles had already started
between the streamlets Ikva and Rák. The Romans, who also brought their
art and culture, did not establish a military base, but created a mainly
civic town. The settled were mostly merchants and veterans. The buildings
on the boggy areas were founded onto piles and pegs made of wood. This
form of building is still very influential onto the terra-base of Sopron's
downtown, and causes the high groundwater; the rotting of the wooden piles
that cannot access air causes the weakening of bases and founds. These
processes caused some inconveniencies and tragedies in the past. That is
why, even with the technology of todays, it is difficult to provide such
bases to the preservation of old buildings, which would meet the overall
static requirements. This phenomenon is also responsible for the fact that
the bases of the Curia (the parts exhibited) had to be brought up to a
higher level.
During the reign of Emperor Vespasianus (69-79 AD)
the city becomes a municipium (a city that has an own constitution, and
whose inhabitants had all the rights of the Roman civis): Municipium Flavium
Augustum. The ruins of 73 villas were found nearby, the remnants of those
villa-farmlands, which were involved in the cultivation of wine grapes,
in the handicrafts' production, and commerce. The Roman Age did not only
bring the patrician architecture with herself, but the mass-produced articles
also appeared, forcing both Romans and Romanised to apply a similar production
system. The commerce of amber-stone became increasingly important in the
1st-2nd century. At this time did the artistically chiselled amber-stones
appear as commercial objects. At first, the picture of the city was of
one loosely built; it was probably composed of a main road crossing the
area diagonally and a number of streets perpendicular to this. The townscape
became planned only around 50 A.D. (at the time of Vespasianus).
Before this planning, however, came the building
of the Roman castle. It had a form of an ellipse, and was 404 x 250 metres
wide. The shape of Scarbantia's walls also refer to the fact that the castle,
built before 380, was to protect the inhabitants rather than the Empire.
The gates of the castle were at the sites where now the Előkapu (Front
gate) and Hátsókapu (Back gate) are located. The protection against the
Marcomann tribes was reinforced by the building of 27 towers along the
castle walls. The main axis of the ellipse corresponded to the direction
of the Amber Road. Afterwards, the downtown's streets took up the form
in which they are visible today. The excavations in the Városház street
proved, that, by the building of the castle wall, a new, artificial border
line was created, which sometimes separated the parts of already existing
houses (the parts outside the wall were destroyed).
The castle had a triple-structured wall (this was
not the same as the multiple system of walls that was established in the
Middle Age under the mayoralty of Kristóf Lackner, but the Roman castle
that was built around the downtown, and it's later system of walls!). This
was made of big quadric-stones on the outside, small quadric-stones on
the inside, and grout mixed with broken stones in between. At the entrance
and exit of the main road the road grew more narrow - from 4.8 metres to
3 metres - and passed between two towers, where the castle gates provided
protection. On the castle wall there were approximately 32-35 towers placed
at even distances from each other. Each of them were solid up to the first
floor, with a 4x8 ms room on their upper floor so as to provide enough
space for the garrison and its equipment. It is very probable, that at
the time of the building of the castle the formation of another city-core
had already started. This was located around the area of the St. Michael
church, where at that time there was a Roman cemetery. According to the
enclosed etching, in the 4th century there was an old Christian parish
in the city Scarbantia, moreover, it was an episcopate. Christianity in
this sight had also "incultured" the former Roman-aged status and here
was built one of the first churches of "villa Scrabantiae" as well. The
church functioned as a site of catafalques, too, and the deceased were
buried in the Roman-aged cemetery. The St. Michael and the Dorfmeister
street provided a link through the Front Gate between the two parts of
the city.
The remnants of the early tribal migrations are
recognisable here as well, especially if the neighbouring settlements and
villages are included as well. The first phase of this migration was marked
by the Germanic Quads, which was called the Foederati age (375-433). The
second phase is the age of the Huns (especially remarkable in Eastern Pannonia).
This period was followed by that of the Eastern Goths (455-471). As fourth
the age of the "Sveb heruls" is mentioned, and lastly the Lombard age followed
(526-586). Afterwards, when the Avars forged ahead (568), the castle became
uninhabited. There is an account about Christians escaping even before,
but e.g. some of the Romanised inhabitants were still living here sparsely
up until 568. The castle then became a ruin. At the former city's site,
a grassland was grown, which, supported by regular wards, was to defend
the borders. The place had lost her significance, because there was neither
in the age of the migrations nor later a border-line nearby. The significance
of the area was not improved after the Francs' offensive either, wherein
Charles the Great stretched his Reign's borders to the Rába. Hence, all
territories lying to the North and West of the Rába, became those of the
Francs. Because of the continuous attacks of Franc and Bulgarian tribes,
the Avar empire, that was weakened from the inside as well, was bound to
collapse. About this time the Francs' baptism took place as well, and a
sort of feudal system appeared in their society. The new fortresses so
as to accommodate border guards were built at this time. An important fund
of this time is the so-called Cunpald chalice, which was found where now
the Sugar Factory of Petőháza is located.
After the Hungarian Conquest (about 900), the new
county-system was established in the area. In county Sopron chief Súr settled.
At this time the Roman walls were still 5-6 metres high. Súr was the ancestor
of the medieval stem called Osl (Osli), the chiefs of which gave names
to lots of settlements around. The Empire of Hungarians reached the river
Enns. This is the time of the "roams", which usually started out from Western
Hungary. The silver coins that appeared after the taxation of Italian and
Western areas, were found here as well. After the Hungarian conquest, considering
the continuous offensives of Barbarian tribes, in order to protect the
roads and forego the offences, King Stephen established a border fortress
on the ruins of the former Scarbantia: Sopron. The King re-established
the border line at the Leitha as well. At King Stephen's time this was
rather a re-organised fortress exactly on the line of the Roman castle,
than a re-built (or newly built) fort. The coffered structure of the fortress
was made of wooden piles and adobe, that was placed onto the restored Roman
ruins. An enormous fire had ruined the castle between the years 1030 and
1074: the wooden structures providing the protection of archers and
catapults must have reached the lower parts of the walls, where the wooden
piles stood. This caused the loam to burn into a reddish colour, with the
charred remnants of the piles inside.
The lord's castle had two gates, on the sites of
the Előkapu (Front gate) and Hátsókapu (Back gate). The Front Gate was
built just a few metres away from the former Northern Gate of Scarbantia.
The Southern Gate of Scarbantia was walled in, and a new gate was opened
on the Eastern wall instead. They still could break out of the castle through
the old gate, however; this is implied by one of the certificates of Bela
the 4th in 1242; a "stratagem" like this is mentioned in it. They started
the building next to the Roman castle walls; thus the ellipse-shaped streets
were formed (St. George and Templom street). In the focuses of the ellipse
two squares were established (Main square - Forum, and St. Ursula square
- Salt market). The latter received its name from the royal salt-depository
and distributor. Later the "green stripes" in between the streets were
halved and built in; thus the Kolostor street between the Templom and Új
street was formed. The houses of this street are parts of the downtown
now, at that time they were protected by the castle wall. The early establishment
of the castle can be proven by the fact that King Clemens had already pointed
out some routs for the crusaders of Gottfried Bouillon in order to let
them cross the castle safely. In the certificate "castellum Cyperon" (Sopron)
is marked, hence we could suppose that the castle was already a significant
one.
The castle itself was a so-called "reeves' castle"
(the name Sopron itself probably comes from the first reeve of the town,
Suprun), and was attended by the villages nearby. This is referred at by
the names of the neighbouring villages. The ecclesiastic remnants of the
city also give some hints. According to these, the settlements on the Bécsi
hill were to watch over the Roman road that had still been used at
this time. The earliest churches of the settlement were also built in this
area: the churches of St. John and St. Michael and the chapel of St. Jacob.
After the re-capturing of the castle, in 1247 Béla the 4th made the Equestrian
Order of St. John settle here so as to protect the town from the side of
the Bécsi gate. The church of the Great Notre-Dame, mentioned together
with the St. Michael church in 1278, was also located outside the walls,
in front of the Front gate, on the place of the Mary-pillar of today. The
church was demolished in the year 1533 - regarding military, strategic
opinions. Before, the church was the site of the Sopron episcopate. Inside
the walls there was a church named after St. George, this is represented
by a Christ-torso in the exhibition presenting the town's history. (In
the medieval Sopron there were 12 churches.) In 1162 Farkas, serviens
of the castle Sopron is mentioned, in 1257 Béla the 4th is speaking about
a territory named Harka which belongs to the castle of Sopron, in 1265
the castellan of the royal castle is called Reeve Peter.
The castle (the churches of which already exist)
standing on the border-line is several times under the attack of Ottokar
the 2nd; between 1253-1278 is occupied and devastated several times. In
order to ensure the fidelity of the town, the troops of Ottokar take the
children of several families as hostages. Still, in 1277 Sopron opens up
her gates to the King Ladislaus the 4th (Kun). To acknowledge the loyalty
of the city, to provide further protection for the inhabitants and to raise
the (lately lessened) number of inhabitants, the king joins the rest of
the royal archers (lővérek, sagittarii) to the city. (The attributive "Civitas
Fidelissima" - received by Sopron in 1921- and the royal letter will be
referred at in the caption dealing with the plebiscite.) The royal castle
is raised to be a free royal city in 1277, also by Ladislaus the 4th. This
is the time, when the second, outer system of walls is raised around the
castle. The privileges of Sopron (formerly given by Béla the 4th and Stephen
the 5th) are reinforced: the half of the tollage at the lake Fertő is to
remain for them, so as to enable the proper maintenance of the gates and
towers of the castle. The lands of the royal courts men were also to belong
to Sopron. The inhabitants of Sopron had no longer to seek the royal reeve
in cases of jurisdiction; their own judges were now entitled to judge cases
of greater crimes as well, and the decima (tax of 1/20th) of the
town could be used for the maintenance of the walls. The citizens may also
build towers for the protection of the city.
It is also Ladislaus the 4th, who bans in 1283 the
settlement outside the walls, and orders the ones that are already settled
that they should move into the city (intra muros). Otherwise, they
would lose their estates. This decree marks the appearance of new (probably
German) settlers in the area, and the establishment of the Újteleki suburb
outside the walls. Between 1277 and 1360, the former royal limen-fortress
became a flourishing Free Royal Town, a merchant-town, in which the German
inhabitants gradually became a majority. In the May of 1339 Charles the
1st supports the building of the town's fortifications by giving the half
of the tollage collected on the Lake Fertő to the citizens. The expenses
of the regular maintenance of the castle was a heavy burden on the
citizens of Sopron, so they apply for allowances of taxation at the king.
King Sigismund orders the bishop of Győr, John, to give the regular decima
(tax of 1/20th) to the city in order to provide financial support for the
maintenance of the castle walls. The same year, in August, a decree is
produced, according to which the town gets to receive 200 Forints out of
the 1/30th-tax of Sopron, also to help the maintenance of the walls and
the trenches.
Sopron is one of the seven Royal Free Towns, the
city's chancellery and archives are established. In 1440 the widow of King
Albert, Elizabeth runs for Sopron with her baby son, Ladislaus the 5th,
and with her courts men. The next year the town is forfeited to the German
King Friedrich III, in spite of the protestation of the league of Free
Royal Towns, to which Sopron also belonged. The German king, Friedrich
IV, orders the citizens of Sopron in 1447 to end up the building of the
balustrade (hiernweer) at the lower wall-strait (zwinger). After 1379 the
area which laid outside the downtown but inside the second system of castle
walls was divided into four quarters (viertel= quarter, the four suburbs
of today). These quarters were divided into four smaller districts as well.
The Outer Committee, a college of the town that had 24 members, was thus
composed of 8 citizens of the downtown, and 4x4=16 citizens from each of
the suburban districts. By this time, the population of the town was probably
around 2100-2300 people, but by 1427 the number of inhabitants rose significantly,
up to 4000.
The first account for the number of houses was dated
in 1379. The guilds first appeared in 1447, which (especially in the early
times) did not only mean defending the interests of the trade or representation,
but also a guarantee of products and the financial-human resources in order
to support the impoverished members of the groups. Interestingly, there
were so-called "religious guilds" as well, the purpose of which was purely
to keep their religious life. The oldest of these is the Company of St.
George, which all priests and city councillors were bound to enter, so
that the company held both the profane and religious executive power up
to the beginning of the 1550s. In the middle of the 16th century, the walls
of the castle are crowned by balustrades. During the reign of King Matthew
Corvin the walls of the castle are already getting ruinous. In 1463 he
manages to re-exchange the town, and a year later orders the inhabitants
to amend the ruinous walls, and urges the nobility to help them with their
work. In 1469 King Matthew lets the town have 100 Forints yearly out of
the Crown toll of Sopron, so as to help the building of castle walls and
towers.
In a decree dated in 1477, Buda, he lets the City
Council know that he ordered the head of his troops which are staying
near Sopron to amend and fortify the castle of the town. The troops quartered
in the town must have been violent, because the king orders them away,
and only lets a few pedestrian troops stay, in order to work on the fortifications
of the castle. The castle and the town plays a very important role during
Matthew's war against the German Kaiser, and gets ruined during this period.
To re-build the ruined parts, in 1483 a decree is born, according to which
the town can keep 300 Forints of the yearly toll ten years long, and
200 Forints out of the 1/30th-tax 16 years long. King Ulaslo the 2nd agrees
in 1496, that the town may use the 1/30th -tax for the amendment of the
walls two years long, still, around 1500 Sopron asks him to free the city
of the tolls, because no walls protect the town anymore, and the only tower
above the gate is completely ruined as well (omnis desolata est).
The re-edification of the castle must have failed,
or the walls got hurt again; in 1507 Ulaslo sends another decree saying,
that the city of Sopron should re-build her fortifications. To enable this,
he frees the town of all exceptional taxes 3 years long, and also agrees,
that during this time they may use the taxes received from the neighbouring
villages for this purpose as well. This decree is prolonged in 1510, and
in 1515, in a letter dated in the town of Tata, he declares, that all Jews
and their principals are to help with the amendments of the walls. They
also must maintain the houses in a very good state, otherwise the City
Council can force them to do so. In this same year the king - having said
that he had seen the destruction of Sopron - frees all citizens of the
1/30th-taxes, who are willing to deliver the building material in order
to re-build their houses - this also concerns the serfs and their
personalties (Házi, Archives. I, 6, 232, 250, 322, 333). Louis the 2nd
also frees the town of the 500 Forints-exceptional tax in 1525, so that
the castle walls may be amended. These works must have finished around
the end of 1526, because the King lets János Dóczi, royal treasurer, the
authorities of the Comity Sopron, and the royal tax-collectors know, that
the town is free of all tolls and taxes for one more year, to end up the
strengthening of the castle walls properly.
However, after the reign of King Matthew Corvin
the military significance of the castle soon becomes lost. The triple castle
walls, first depicted on the map of 1597, are the results of hundreds of
years' development. At the same time, the middle wall is filled up with
soil (the so-called tower gardens), that is important in the protection
of the castle from the outer offensive, but also, the canons of the defence
could also be placed onto them. The big roundel was finished in 1631; a
similar tower was built behind the Ursula convent. In 1641 a five-angled,
Italian style tower was built at the South-Western corner of the castle.
As the fire-arms appeared, the former walls, designed to the old military
equipments (archers, etc.) provided no further protection. Thus the holes
of the old walls were filled in, moreover, an approximately 1 metre high
brick wall was built onto them. Loopholes were cut into the walls, enabling
the soldiers to use the new military technologies (filling the arms between
the loopholes, and firing them through the holes). The gates were built
over, into the entrance dams pitfalls were dug. The castle trench was filled
with the water of the Rák Brooklet.
In 1524 the reformation appears in Sopron, at first
in the country. In spite of the auto-da-fe's, the majority of the citizens
soon convert to Lutheranism. In 1526 the Jews are expelled of the city.
In 1529 the Turks occupy and ravage the suburbs. The town still has to
resign of the building of an up-to-date defence system. As the offensive
fire-arms became more and more effective, and their range also rose, the
neighbouring heights (especially the St. Michael hill) were of great disadvantage
for the city. Involving the St. Michael hill in the defence system, however,
would have meant such expenses for the constantly indebted Habsburg-emperors,
that they could not have risked the investment. Thus the Military Council
of Vienna, when building the Western defence system of castles, did
not update the castle of Sopron.
Before the Eastern of 1617 the Chronicle writes
several times about restoration of walls, pre-eminently at the gates (Gazda
street - formerly Wieden street, the old St. Michael cemetery, and at all
suburban gates). In the famously great year of vinery the tower next to
the Back-gate (Hátsókapu) is built, of which unfortunately nothing has
remained. In 1627 the trenches, including the long trench, are cleaned
again. Next to the Back-gate some towers are built, and the building
of the outer castle wall, which had started in 1617, finally comes to an
end. Some, considering the early mentioning of the various gates of the
town in the decrees (Fisher-gate 1432, St. Michael-gate 1504, Windmill-gate
1523, Newlot-gate 1524, St. Leonard-gate 1475, and Hungarian-gate 1535),
mistakenly think that there should have been some early walls. However,
the chronicle states clearly, that the outer walls next to the gates were
first established by Lackner, in 1617. So, what kind of walls could
have stood here before 1617, if they have been only built after? The right
interpretation of the term "gate" must therefore have been "bar", "crossing
gates". It should have been a gate-like cut-off of the road, which did
not necessarily mean adjoint castle walls. The walls could have been substituted
by simple fences. After the building of the castle wall around the downtown
was finished, it took a longer time for the triple system of walls with
all the towers to develop, and for other settlements (quarters) outside
the trenches to build fences made of stones around themselves. These walls
or fences, however, did not provide any protection in case of serious attacks.
By the end of the fifteenth century the more or less
rectangular area of the castle was surrounded by high, protecting walls.
In front of the castle walls there was an approximately 60 metres wide
free space, which still can be detected if one looks at the facades of
the houses on the Várkerület, Széchenyi square, Petőfi square, Ógabona
square, and the Várkerület again. This line of houses follows the line
of the slightly broken line of the castle walls. Most of the outer walls
and towers are still visible. The area according to limits of the effective
archery (according to Jenő Gyalókai this is 60 m) was left blank, and,
to prevent the foes from climbing onto the walls, circular tower were built
in front of the walls. Their location enabled the soldiers to fire in almost
all directions. If we take a look at the wall that can be seen today, the
one that protected the downtown, it is clear that this provided the most
of the protection of Sopron.
Accordingly, in the triple system of walls this
line was most fortified with densely placed, circular towers. The inner
wall, facing the wall-straits inside the middle walls, formed the most
inner circle of the system. This wall - which even contains walls of existing
houses, sometimes re-built with the facades of those - also contains loopholes
and ramps, which all refer to the original purpose of it. So we can find
in the Storno-house (Main sq. 8) the ogived door-frame of a medieval ramp,
or a gothic door-frame in the Lackner house (Main sq. 7) In the St. George
street 19, above the line of the wall-strait, the ruinous medieval wall
still rises up to a height of about 5 metres. In its upper part, three
loopholes can be seen, the size of which equals to the size of those in
the main wall. Not only pedestrian-approaches were leading to the wall-strait
that rose 3 metres high above the inner area of the town, but also ramps
for carriages. In the courtyard of the house Nr. 1 in the St George street,
a medieval gate-frame can be seen, ending in segmented arches , the width
of which was about 2,40 metres. The inner wall of the triple wall-system
can be detected securely: in the courtyards and ends of the houses
Nr. 8, 7, 6 of the Main Sq., Nr. 3, 2, 1 of the Orsolya sq, Nr. 19, 17,
15 of the St. George street At the ends of the lots the area are called
the "tower gardens". The houses Nr. 2, 4, 16, 18, 22 of the Templom
street, Nr. 13, 9, 7, 5 of the St George street probably contain such walls.
The inner walls could have been 5-6 metres higher
than those of the wall-straits, and were about 60-100 centimetres deep.
The equal size of the towers in the middle line of walls (5, 20 metres
inner diameter), and their even distribution along the walls (about 30
metres distance between the axles) are to prove, that the whole protection
area was built at the same time. The depth of the main walls above the
wall-straits, at the loopholes is about 60-70 centimetres. The distances
between the axles of the loopholes lie between 2,40 and 2,80 metres, thus
forming a regular line. The loophole is located in the plane of the wall
that is facing the trench. It is 8 centimetres wide and 65 centimetres
high. Towards the inside it is widening to 65-70 centimetres, and is formed
with a cone-lining which ends in a segmented arch. In most cases it is
coped over with bricks. The circular towers still exist, though some only
partially, in the houses Nr. 7, 5 of the Main sq., Nr. 2, 8, 16 of
the Templom street, Nr. 2 of the Színház street, Nr. 3, 2 of the Orsolya
sq, Nr. 19, 15, 9, 3 of the St. George street, and in the house Nr. 4 of
the Városház street. Watching from the site of the former castle trench,
the circular towers next to the houses Nr. 110, 102 and 98 of the Várkerület,
and in the courtyards of the houses Nr. 10 of the Várkerület, Nr. 11, 15,
19, 25 and 31 of the Színház street still can be seen. The depth of the
walls of the towers above, which were providing protection from the sides
and at the corners, equals to that of the main walls. The size of its loopholes
cannot be determined, since none of them has remained intact. Still we
can appoint that the towers had 3 loopholes each, the middle one always
facing forwards, the ones at the sides facing the castle walls.
According to the map drawn in 1597 the towers followed
each other keeping a distance of 25 metres, and at the houses Nr. 17 -
18 of the Széchenyi square there were two towers standing, with 12-13 metres
of axle distance between them. The remnants of one of these towers could
be the ruin that was found in 2001, when the basement of the Congress Centre
was laid down. The location of these two towers could possibly have been
an arrangement for the protection of the gates. The baroque state of the
Front gate (Előkapu) still bears the moralities of the medieval structure
of the castle. This state is conserved by a drawing that was made before
1754 by Joannes Georgius Trost Maurermeister, in order to fix a place for
the chapel and statue of St. John of Nipomo that was to be built (original:
Sopron, Common Archives). The castle, besides the small towers and
the bigger "roundels", that also allowed the positioning of fire-arms,
also had a tower of the old Italian system. This was the tower at the South-Western
corner of the castle, with one of its elevations facing the Petőfi square,
with the other facing the Széchenyi square. The tower was standing out
with about 6 metres in front of the adjoint walls' plane, so that these
walls became easy to protect. This "old Italian" tower, together with the
roundel, was built surprisingly late, after 1597. The other roundel was
built somewhat before - in the middle of the seventeenth century - it has
a structure that usually was used in the earlier towers. In the year 1676
an enormous conflagration is destroying the downtown of Sopron. Most of
the houses, by this time possessed by the nobility who start to seek protection
inside the walls, get hurt some way.
The vaulting tract of the outer castle, which had
remained in a few metres' length in the garden of the Museum Ferenc Liszt,
was built around 1640. The Bécsi- (Viennese) -gate (also called Szélmalom,
i.e. Windmill gate), that lies in the axis of the Bécsi Road, is the point
where the line of the outer castle wall breaks. The little tower standing
next to the gate is quite ruinous. If one follows the direction of the
wall to the South-west, can determine the place of the former dormitory
of the Jesuits - the building still exists, however, nowadays it is used
as an agricultural building. Here the outer wall was fortified by a smaller
tower as well; this was demolished in the last century, when the building
of the road took place. An other little tower can, however, still be seen
between the Lackner street and the Ikva Brooklet, on the site where the
walls followed the direction of the Patak street. Forming the inner lines
of the Ferenczi János street and the Újteleki street, the Volán coach terminal,
the Várfal street and the Fehér Dániel street, the walls and two little
roundels are still visible.
The direction of the wall heading south broke at the Museum,
and formerly it ran along the line of the Deák square. The next line,
which breaks about the site of the hospital, heads upwards, towards the
Kőfaragó square. From here, it becomes a division line between the Wooden
Market (Fapiac) and the lots of the Pócsi street, and joins the walls of
the catholic cemetery. Two little towers are still standing along this
line. The outer walls were joining beset areas, crofts. Such was the croft
of the Jesuits' dormitory next to the Bécsi-gate around 1660, and such
was the orchard and vegetable garden of the Jesuits (later on the Franciscans
possessed them) around 1700 next to the János Ferenczy street.
The depiction of these gardens is shown on the gravure
of Michel Zakariás made in 1700, which shows the city from a bird-sight.
In the legend of the picture the Bécsi- (Viennese-) gate is called Windmühltor,
the one between the two towers Bdechthurm. To the wall, which girdled around
the downtown, no houses were built from the outside at this time. In addition
to the outer walls described above, there is an other outer wall capturing
a smaller area, the remnants of which can be seen and followed up at the
shores of the Ikva, and at the site of the Paprét that is closer to the
downtown. There is a small tower remained in the wall behind the Tűzoltó-tower
as well. At the end of the 17th century, when the Ottomans leave the country,
one of the main commercial roads (trade of horses and cattle) crosses Sopron.
At the beginning of the 18th century the town belongs to the ten best of
Hungary. The trade of typography, the moulding of canons and church
bells, the traditional blue-painting appears. The castle trenches are filled
with ground; little vegetable-gardens develop instead. At this time the
development of the Várkerület (Castle round) also finishes. In 1753 is
the first colliery of the country is discovered, and it also starts functioning,
thanks to the first steam-driven conveyor of the country. After 1775 the
right of citizenship can also be possessed by inhabitants who don't own
a house. After 1786 Sopron gradually becomes a small town, in spite of
the fact that it's still the capital of the county. The number of the inhabitants
is more than 11000 by this time.
In 1835 István Széchenyi becomes a honorary citizen
of the town, he establishes a steam-driven mill in 1842, and saving banks
with the help of the German merchants. After 1840 the formerly expelled
Jews can return into the town. By this time, outside of the quarters of
the suburbs (which by this time had became a sort of "outer downtown"),
moreover, outside the Lackner walls, another building of houses is started.
These areas are called Front-town (Vorstadt), in order to distinguish them
from the quarters inside the outer walls. In the freedom-fight of 1848
the town does not play a significant role, in the same year Sopron is lodged
by the troops of Windischgrätz, and, after the freedom-fight is beaten
down, the town becomes the centre of the Trans-danubian District (the financial,
military and police matters of 9 former counties are managed from here).
In 1850 the City Council is abolished, of the villages around only Brennberg
belongs to Sopron in the future. The railway between Sopron and Nagykanizsa
is established; however, the city would not lie on the railway line connecting
Budapest and Vienna. The gas-works start to function. After the establishment
of the Austro-Hu nagrian empire Sopron re-gains her position as county
capital. At the end of the century the capitalistic development of the
town starts inside the Monarchy, which is interrupted by the First World
War and the proclamation of the Republic of Councils. In 1919, by the Treaty
of Saint-Germaine, a significant portion of Western Hungary is given to
Austria.
When the plebiscite of the 14th December 1921 takes
place (antedated by the battle of Ágfalva), Sopron and the area around
stays Hungarian. After this plebistice the town receives the prestigious
title "Civitas Fidelissima" (the most faithful town). Some say, that this
name already was mentioned in the decree of Ladislaus (Kun) the 4th, in
1277, and the title of 1921 is only a renewal of the former one, but the
mentioned medieval decree does not contain information referring to the
term "Civitas Fidelissima". The decree mentions faithfulness twice: once
when speaking about the faithful citizens of Sopron who present themselves
(fideles nostri ciues de Supronio), and the second time, when he writes
about the citizens who proved their loyalty to the king by sacrificing
their children in hostage (eorum ciuium gratam fidelitatem). In the inter-war
years the town lies on the border, which causes severe damages in the economy.
This the town tries to balance by developing the textile-industry and tourism.
On the 19th March 1944 Sopron is also lodged by the German troops. Near
New Year's Day the city had three heavy bombardments to suffer. On the
31st of March the Soviets reached Sopron.
During the after-war years most of the German-speaking
population is evacuated. In 1950 Sopron loses her rank of a County Capital.
During the socialism the town lays in the so-called "border-line", and
can only be visited with special permissions. In the course of the years,
its industry gets forfeited, partly consciously, partly because of the
town's vague accessibility, and becomes rather culture-orientated. Since
Sopron lays in the "border-line", and the Iron Curtain is so much nearby,
the harassments of visitors on the trains, public roads, etc. are regular.
The mines around the area are cleaned up relatively soon after, but the
"up-to-date" system of barbed wire, reacting by touch, runs kilometres
long inside and alongside the border. The town tries to defend herself,
as she can: during the Festive Days of Sopron her gates get to be somewhat
wider opened, and she really can show her hidden beauties to the visitors.
On the 19th August 1989 in Fertőrákos the so-called
Paneuropean Picnic was held, when the barbed wire of the Iron curtain first
was cut. Hundreds of East-Germans flew through the border to Austria. In
the decade after the changes the town became that of the guest-workers
and trading. The shopping-tourism became very significant, onto which phenomenon
the whole system of shops and shopping-centres was built. The significance
of the shopping-tourism will only lessen around the millennium, but
even then, it would still remain very important in the life of the town.
The city would like to become a site of the high quality tourism, entertainment,
vintners, and conferences.
(István Drávai Dr.: Sopron Monument City- ISE 2002) |